Ebook Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season, by Nick Heil
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Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season, by Nick Heil
Ebook Dark Summit: The True Story of Everest's Most Controversial Season, by Nick Heil
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Review
“In this authoritative, colorful look at the grimmest Everest season in years, Dark Summit carries forward Outside magazine's formidable tradition of high alpine literature. Nick Heil is alive to Everest's majesty but fiercely skeptical of those hubristic souls who attempt to ‘conquer' her. Through rock-solid reporting and vital prose, Heil leads us up into this rarefied world, step by hypoxic step.†―Hampton Sides, author of Ghost Soldiers and Blood and Thunder“Here is humanity itself, personified in exemplary fashion by Nick Heil, addressing the Everest culture's lack of compassion and coming up with the right answers. Dark Summit is an extraordinary tale, ribboned with wisdom and profound insight, delivered by a first-rate storyteller. I consider the book not a sequel to Krakauer's Into Thin Air, but an equal.†―Bob Shacochis, author of The Immaculate Invasion“Dark Summit illuminates the nuanced personalities of Everest's modern commercial age accurately, with neither heroic romanticism nor guile. Nick Heil takes a critical yet objective look at Everest and the community of Everest climbers, and then leaves you to pass judgment. If you couldn't put down Into Thin Air, you must read Dark Summit to understand what it means to climb Everest today and why anyone might accept the risk.†―Peter Athans, seven-time Everest summiter and The North Face athlete
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About the Author
Nick Heil first wrote about the 2006 climbing season for Men's Journal. Now a freelance journalist based in Santa Fe, New Mexico, he was a senior editor at Outside from 1999 to 2006. He has also worked as a climbing and skiing instructor, and has traveled extensively in Europe, Asia, and North America.
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Product details
Paperback: 304 pages
Publisher: Holt Paperbacks; Reprint edition (February 3, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0805089918
ISBN-13: 978-0805089912
Product Dimensions:
5.2 x 0.8 x 8 inches
Shipping Weight: 8.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.3 out of 5 stars
150 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#541,964 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Nick HeilLeaving a man to die in the Dead Zone of Everest…Above 8,000 meters on the high mountains of the world is a place where humans were never built to survive for long. On Mount Everest there have been many cases of people who had to be left for dead because they could not assist in their own rescue. In 1996 when Rob Hall remained behind and refused to abandon a client, both ended up dying. That is the reality of the risk.Of course there have been those who were left for dead and ended up surviving against all odds. There was Beck Weathers during the infamous 1996 season. In this book is the story of Lincoln Hall. Left for dead, he was discovered alive the next day and successfully rescued.Then there is this controversial case. David Sharp, a young British climber was found alive near the summit of Everest. Beside him was the body of a man called “Green Shoes†by climbers. The man had died long ago; his body unrecoverable. It is now used as a marker, to let people know where they are on the mountain.When David Sharp was found, forty people simply climbed past him, paying scant attention. They left him oxygen and gave some minor assistance, but they all elected to continue the climb. Could Sharp have been saved if some of them had abandoned their climb and helped him down to the next safe camp? Would it have made a difference if he had been a member of one of the expeditions, instead of choosing to basically climb without support?The question will never be answered. It is certain that above 8,000 meters, a climber knows that he or she needs to know when to turn around. As one climber has said, “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is necessary.†Do people become desensitized to the plight of their fellow humans on such climbs? Or is it simply that the knowledge that each person knows the risks and must be willing to accept that they are in the end responsible for themselves? Is it really too dangerous to even attempt rescue?This book explores the questions, without accusations and unbiased. It details the hardships of climbing Everest, how the mind and is I a story of how to survive, and how choices must be made.I give the book five stars…Quoth the Raven…
This is an excellent work, that tells a great deal about David Sharp being found in "Green Boots" cave, alive, near the top of Mt. Everest. The writing is on, or above par with "Into Thin Air". A more complete light is shown on the tasks of the leaders of the climbing teams. Also how information flows from the climbers, to the expedition leaders, and to the outside world.If nothing else, the picture of how dangerous rescue attempts can be at such high altitudes. Lives of three Sherpas have been lost it an attempt to retrieve a body for return to base camp. Unless you are able to walk, and follow commands, rescue so high up on Mt Everest is virtually impossible.This book is an excellent read. It is packed with information on expeditions to the top of Mt. Everest. If you are interested in Mt. Everest climbs, this work is packed with information. More important is the coverage of what happened to David Sharp.
I’m not a climber nor a wannabe, but I am enthralled by books about climbing the world’s highest mountains. In Dark Summit, Nick Heil very ably tells the tragic story of the 2006 climbing season on Mt. Everest. Hell thoroughly researched this book through extensive interviews & reading & leads the reader through the extreme difficulties encountered by high altitude climbers. I highly recommend Heil’s book as well as many others he references in his research.
I am not a climber but have always found Himalayan adventures fascinating. From Into Thin Air, The Climb and Beyond the Limit( TV). All of these are necessary to start to understand the events from 1996 to 2006. This book is tougher to follow due to the various teams and expeditions it tries to cover. If you have read and watched the above mentioned resources it will provide added insight into some of the main players on the mountain.
The truth is that once you read a few accounts (I have read Into Thin Air, The Climb,and also am just about finished with this book Dark Summit), you can certainly read between the lines and pick up the backstory- of "what people were like" and such, and perhaps even why, whether you can respect that or not. I don't reallythink we need more salacious details as the contexts speak for themselves.I was struck and struggled to integrate the fact that climbing this mountain, with such an ethereal and potentially pristine essence offered by nature (and all the focus and stress on the summit, as if just climbing and getting experience in the environment isn't quite enough) is juxtaposed now with modern greed, ambition, ego, and hubris. It is clear to me that "accomplishing this feat" takes a very specific mix of measured readiness which perhaps only the Sherpas innately have due to their upbringing (and genetics) in the high altitude areas, in addition to their spiritual respect for the forces of nature and the mountains. I could also clearly see this measured readiness and deep inner preparation come through in Boukreev as narrated in The Climb.Summiting Everest wasn't meant for the masses, and even without the drama and challenges of the death zone and summit descents, the whole thing sounds like it has turned into a huge headache of trash, filth, debauchery, and misery.Yes I would recommend definitely adding this book to your reading list about Everest expeditions.
The first part of the book essentially rehashes the contents of the Discovery "Everest Beyond the Limit" TV shows, adding little to nothing new. If you didn't watch the shows, then this would be much more interesting.The second part of the book, covering the story of Lincoln Hall feels entirely disjoint from the first portion of the book, and the narrative is wandering and unclear.The copy-editing of the entire book is lacking, and many times it feels like someone was just using a thesaurus and grabbing random synonyms without understanding the real meanings.
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